Dermatologists weigh in on face yoga, gua sha and the viral gadgets promising tighter, brighter skin, and what they actually deliver.
Scroll through #SkinTok long enough and you will find someone gliding a rose quartz stone across their cheekbones, chewing rock-hard gum or nodding along with a weighted gadget clamped between their lips. The pitch is simple: Train your face like you train your body, and a firmer, more sculpted look will follow.
Facial fitness has gone mainstream in recent years, but the idea is hardly new. Some techniques have circulated for decades, and favorites like jade rollers and gua sha stones trace back to traditional Chinese medicine. For anyone building a self-care routine that doesn’t hinge on pricey injections, the appeal is clear. The real question is whether it works.
What facial fitness really means
Brendan Camp, a double board-certified dermatologist, told DailyOM that the practice centers on keeping skin healthy through physical exercise and stimulation rather than topical products, though many devotees still work a serum or moisturizer into the routine.
New York City board-certified dermatologist Asmi Sanghvi said repetitive movement and resistance are meant to strengthen and tone facial muscles, producing a more sculpted and, some claim, slimmer face. Camp added that working those muscles can make skin appear tighter and more rejuvenated.
The science is still catching up
Camp pointed to a few immediate perks. Some exercises boost circulation, delivering more blood and oxygen to tissue, and stimulate the lymphatic system to ease puffiness.
The long-term picture is murkier. A consistent routine may gradually help with skin tone and signs of aging, Camp said, but scientific evidence remains thin and most success stories are anecdotal. Sanghvi urged people to keep expectations in check, warning that results may be modest, fleeting or nonexistent compared with proven treatments. A board-certified dermatologist or cosmetic professional can help tailor a plan to individual goals.
Still, there is little downside to trying. Most routines are simple and easy to slip into an existing regimen, and they double as a way to pamper your face.
Five facial workouts on the radar
First is facial fitness gum, a tougher-than-usual chew that Sanghvi called a novelty product. The added resistance is supposed to strengthen facial muscles, but there is no proof it changes appearance. Chewing can also trigger headaches, so those prone to them should skip it and everyone else should go easy.
Next come resistance gadgets popularized on TikTok and Instagram. The Pao device sets a mouthpiece between two weights; users nod so the weights swing, training the muscles around the mouth. Camp cited a small April 2018 study in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal showing increased facial muscle thickness after eight weeks, though Sanghvi said more research is needed.
Face yoga, which fans call a natural alternative to Botox or a face-lift, has some of the strongest backing. A small study in JAMA Dermatology, published in March 2018, followed women ages 40 to 65 who practiced 30 minutes daily for eight weeks, then every other day. By week 20, they showed fuller faces and felt they looked younger. One exercise involves consciously releasing tension, such as a furrowed brow, throughout the day; another uses the fingers to pull the brows down while lifting the forehead to soften lines. It should never hurt, and anyone with a skin condition or a face, head or neck injury should consult a doctor first.
Gua sha and the gentle touch
Gua sha uses a curved jade or rose quartz stone, or a roller, to relax muscles, boost circulation and reduce swelling. Toothed edges target deep-set wrinkles, scooped shapes help with contouring and rollers revive puffy eyes. One study tied the technique to increased microcirculation, and a session with a practitioner such as an acupuncturist can sharpen form. Annelise Hagen, author of The Yoga Face, has likened pairing gua sha with face yoga to following a dance class with a massage.
Finally, lymphatic drainage facials use gentle, rhythmic strokes on the face and neck, performed by a massage therapist. London-based lymphatic therapist Flavia Morellato said the goal is to keep lymph flowing, which can flush toxins and reduce puffiness and under-eye bags. She added that better circulation may brighten tone and help skin care products absorb more deeply. Research on facial versions is limited, but the relaxation alone can benefit overall well-being.
The bottom line
For now, the verdict is mixed. Facial fitness is no substitute for a dermatologist, but as a soothing daily ritual, it may earn a few minutes of your time.
Source: DailyOM
