A dermatologist weighs in on glycolic acid, overnight masks and whether underarms need any of it.
Most people do not need an elaborate underarm skincare routine, according to board certified dermatologist Dr. Adarsh Vijay Mudgil, even as a new TikTok trend pushes multi step armpit regimens involving exfoliants, serums and overnight masks. For decades, underarm care meant soap and deodorant. A wave of BeautyTok creators is now treating that routine as outdated, layering products once reserved for the face onto their underarms instead.
What is the TikTok armpit routine trend
Creators across BeautyTok are applying chemical exfoliants, serums, lotions and overnight masks to their underarms, aiming to prevent ingrown hairs, fade hyperpigmentation and achieve smoother, brighter skin. Some videos show hypochlorous acid sprays, ingrown hair serums, witch hazel, vitamin C creams, sunscreen and even turmeric masks worked into nightly routines. The trend has picked up momentum ahead of summer, as tank tops and sleeveless styles put underarms on more frequent display.
Does glycolic acid actually work on underarm skin
Yes, according to Mudgil, though not for everyone. Glycolic acid, a chemical exfoliant already common in facial skincare, is effective at treating some of the exact issues driving this trend, including ingrown hairs and hyperpigmentation. Ingrown hairs often stem from shaving irritation, which glycolic acid can help address by exfoliating the skin, but hyperpigmentation has multiple causes and is not always something a product can prevent or reverse.
How should someone try glycolic acid safely
Mudgil recommends starting slow. He suggests choosing a product with a glycolic acid concentration of 5% to 7%, applying it a few nights per week rather than daily, and watching closely for any irritation. If the skin reacts poorly, he advises switching to a lower strength formula and cutting back on how often it is applied. As an alpha hydroxy acid, glycolic acid works by exfoliating the skin’s surface, which means overuse can cause redness or sensitivity, particularly in an area as thin skinned as the underarm.
Do most people need a full underarm skincare regimen
No. Mudgil’s guidance is direct on this point, saying underarms generally do not require a routine at all. For the vast majority of people, basic soap and deodorant remain enough to keep the area clean and comfortable. He does not recommend most people invest in the kind of layered, multi product regimen circulating on TikTok, even though some of the individual ingredients involved are legitimate skincare tools when used correctly.
When should someone see a dermatologist about underarm skin
Mudgil suggests consulting a dermatologist for persistent issues, such as ongoing hyperpigmentation or frequent ingrown hairs that do not improve with basic care. A dermatologist can evaluate the skin directly and recommend a tailored plan, which might include over the counter products, prescription treatments or a combination of both, rather than the broad approach many TikTok routines take.
Why is this trend catching on despite the expert pushback
Part of the appeal comes from dramatic before and after clips that circulate widely on the platform, showing visible fading of dark spots or smoother texture after weeks of treatment. At the same time, plenty of TikTok users have pushed back in the comments, expressing frustration at yet another step being added to an already crowded skincare routine. That tension, between visible results for some and skepticism from others, is part of what has kept the trend in circulation.
What is the bottom line on armpit skincare
There is no universal answer, and that is really the point. Some people dealing with specific, persistent concerns may benefit from targeted ingredients like glycolic acid, introduced carefully and ideally with professional guidance. Everyone else can likely skip the exfoliants, serums and overnight masks entirely. Simplifying rather than expanding a routine is, in this case, the advice actually backed by a dermatologist.
